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Last weekend Anders’ parents were in town and we took them to Gutta på Haugen to secure the Saturday night dinner. Anders wanted to cook with his dad. Ever since Anders was a kid his favorite meal if he can choose is a juicy piece of meat with Béarnaise sauce. Gutta’s Entrecôte is a perfect choice, and we also got some French unsalted butter and goose fat for the potatoes.
200 g per person of high quality entrecôte from Gutta på Haugen
1 tbsp whole black pepper
Sunflower or rapeseed oil and clarified butter
6 small potatoes per person
1/2 jar of goose fat
500g butter, unsalted
2 egg yolks
1 dl white wine
1/2 dl white wine vinegar
fresh tarragon, 1 medium plant
fresh flat-leaf parsley, 1 handful
salt & pepper
Mise en place
Mise en place is usually a good idea, especially for food like this. Place your meat on a cutting board in room temperature. Cut all of the potatoes in two, vertically, to expose as much as possible of the “meat” inside without peeling. Leave potatoes under running water to remove some of the starch. Meanwhile, separate the egg yolks from whites. Keep the whites for something else.
Chop the flat-leaf parsley and put aside. Take 3/4 of the tarragon plant and remove the leaves, chop them finely and put aside. Take the remaining 1/4 and chop the leaves along with the sprigs. Put this aside in a separate bowl where you also put the finely chopped shallot. Measure up the white wine and white wine vinegar in a measurement cup.
Roast the tablespoon of whole black pepper in a frying pan on high temperature. Watch as the pepper corns look like they are popping and jumping around in the pan. Remove from heat and mortar into medium fine pieces. Sift the pepper to remove the finest pieces. Use the medium fine pieces and rub it all into the entrecôte.
Time to cook
We start by making the Béarnaise sauce. Melt the 500g of unsalted butter on low heat in a pot. Once melted, skim off the top layer of milk foam with a spoon. To remove the lower level of milk solids you slowly pour the butter into a new container, leaving behind the milk in the pot. You now have clarified butter. Set aside, but try to keep somewhat warm. Remove 2 tbsp of the clarified butter that you will use for frying the meat later.
In another pot on medium heat; add shallots, 1/4 of the tarragon and the sprigs, white wine, white wine vinegar and 4-5 twists of a pepper mill. Cook until 1 tbsp of liquid remains, then sift through a strainer to remove the herbs and onions. Allow the liquid to cool while you ready a water bath. Bring the water to a boil, then turn off heat completely.
In a glass or stainless steel bowl that can be lowered slightly into the water, add the egg yolks and the concentrated liquid. Start whisking. A big heavy whisk is preferable. You want a good foamy consistency before you start pouring the melted butter very slowly into the mixture. Whisk heavily. Start with a few drops of butter, then add more when you are comfortable. It may take a bit of butter and some time for the temperature of the egg yolks to rise in order for the emulsion process to start properly. As long as you do it slowly it should work out fine. Once all butter is added and you’ve whisked it together to a thick sauce, add the 3/4 of the chopped tarragon and all the chopped parsley. Add salt to taste. Leave the sauce in the bowl immersed in water to keep it warm, but pay attention to the temperature to make sure the emulsion don’t start to break. If it does; quickly add some drops of cold water and whisk heavily.
This can be done simultaneously as you start cooking the potatoes, but the procedures are separated here for a better overview. In a mixture of sunflower/rapeseed oil and clarified butter, on high temperature, fry the meat about 2 minutes on each side to give it a caramelized crust. Wrap in aluminum foil and allow to rest for 10 minutes. Set your oven to 180 degrees C. Cooking time for medium/rare is about 6-8 minutes with the weight and thickness of the meat we used, which was roughly 350g per piece and a thickness of 4 cm. You can also use a cooking thermometer. In such a case you’re looking for 52 degrees C at the core before you remove the meat from the oven. It will rise to at least 55 degrees C while cooling. Wrap in aluminum foil and allow to cool for 10-15 minutes or until potatoes are ready.
On of the new trends we see in Oslo is that the big malls are refurbishing and opening food courts in their lower floors. Paleet in Karl Johan did so earlier this autumn, as parts of modernizing their mall. Now Steen & Strøm in Nedre Slottsgate has done the same. While Paleet’s attempt turned out to be more of a gathering of restaurants in one floor, Steen & Strøm has actually made a food court where you can shop around and grab a table where you feel like it.
They have a total of twelve restaurants, food vendors and specialty stores at the moment, as well as a super market. Newspapers are already calling it Oslo’s third food hall, following Mathallen at Vulkan and Maschmann’s Matmarked at Skøyen. We went to test all of the places, to see if they could live up to the expectations.
Pork, beef and ratatouille are offered at 89/95 NOK if you just need a snack, and in a bigger size with condiments for 149 NOK to enjoy as dinner. Dessert pies with lemon meringue, chocolate and peanuts, apple crumble and pumpkin and caramel are 64/70 NOK. All in all we find this a good value for money place, especially considering the quality of the ingredients and the love that goes into making each and every one of them.
Burritos are filled with either rice or beans and then a choice of Josper grilled vegetables (NOK 83), chicken (NOK 95), pulled pork (NOK 118) or entrecôte (NOK 145). The remaining condiments are all included, except for guacamole which costs and additional NOK 23. Condiments include salad, pickled red onions, corn, cheese, different salsas and fresh coriander. You decide what to put on.
The meat still tasted good, but not as good as the samples we got the other day. Could it be because they store the meat in open air and it had gone cold? The salsas were a little runny, and the girl serving us was rather cheap on the guacamole we paid NOK 23 extra for. We got maybe a tablespoon or so per burrito, and thus the flavor disappeared almost entirely. Overall it tasted quite good, though, and we will return to to test some more later.
Everything is organic! All ingredients are of the highest quality. We have heard rumors that these crazy Danes went hunting for organic oranges in Italy. They found their perfect tasting orange, but the farm was not run organic. The farmer refused to facilitate for organic operation. Summerbird called him every Thursday for two years, and even went to visit him again several times. Until he gave up! Today he delivers the perfect oranges as they wished for, and he thanks them for convincing him to do it organic.
We took no chances and followed the correct procedures: “As you walk in the place move immediately to your right, keep the line moving, hold out your money, speak your soup in a loud, clear voice, step to the left and receive. Do not to embellish on your order. No extraneous comments. No questions. No compliments.”
The soups were ok, especially the Dal tasted quite good. The “Pinnekjøtt”soup is a little boring. If you add that it is priced at NOK 109 and leaves you less than full even for lunch – it doesn’t really work so well. Nothing here that screams of legend status as far as flavors are concerned. I guess we’ll come back – one year.
Time to test some more of the awesome products we received from Matbazaren.no. This time we wanted to make something with the confit duck. Confit duck is duck legs cooked and then preserved in duck fat. What better match to this fat meat than some sweet chinese pancakes (jian bing) and hoisin sauce? This dish is of course inspired by Hitchhiker, who recently removed it from their menu.
Ingredients (serves 2 people)
3 eggs + 2 eggs
3 tbsp sugar
1 tsp salt
1 dl all-purpose flour
2 dl whole milk
Ready your chop sticks and start cooking!
Chinese pancakes are dead easy to make. Whisk together 3 eggs, by hand or in a kitchen machine if you have. Add sugar and salt. Sift in the flour. 1 dl is an estimate, make sure it gets sticky. Then start adding whole milk to make the consistency more runny again. You want the batter to be more runny than traditional pancake batter, in order to make the pancakes thin enough. Set the batter aside for now. Whisk together the last 2 eggs in a bowl.
Set your oven to 225 degrees C. Open the can of confit duck and strain the duck fat. Keep the fat in a sealed container and store it somewhere! This is amazing for frying potatoes another time. Place a deep baking tray in the middle of your oven, and fill it with 2-3 liters of water. Then place a roast rack above it. When the oven is warm, place the pieces of confit duck on the rack. The water makes sure the fat doesn’t burn in your oven, and also helps keeps the meat juicy. Set the timer to 15 minutes.
Chop the spring onions and ready the hoisin sauce for serving.
Heat your pan to medium low temperature. Add some oil, but spread it out with kitchen paper. You just want a thin layer of oil. Add enough batter to completely cover your pan with a thin layer. Thin is a keyword here! A rotation movement of your wrist should be enough to evenly distribute the batter in the pan. If the first pancake gets too thick, or it’s difficult to spread it out properly try to 1) dillute the batter with more milk 2) reduce the heat on your pan 3) use less batter. Leave the pancake for a few seconds until the upper side solidifies and then brush a layer of the eggs you whisked together. Give the pan a hard shake. If the pancake loosens it is time to flip it. Let it fry on the other side until it starts getting a golden color, but not longer. You don’t want the pancakes to get too dry.
Sometime during your pancake frying the duck should be ready. Take it out to le the meat rest, while you switch on your oven’s grill or hot air progam and increase to 250-275 degrees C. When the oven is warm enough you return the duck for a final speed grilling to make the skin crispy. Pay attention! The duck goes from perfectly crispy to burnt very fast.
Use two forks to pull the meat from the bones. This is like pulled pork in consistency, even smoother. Fill your pancakes with meat, spring onions and hoisin sauce. Roll. Cut in four small or two big pieces. Sprinkle with more spring onion or thai basil. Serve.
Samsung invited me along with other food bloggers, writers and journalists to a Korean cookalong. The event took place in Kanonhallen in Oslo. I want to share some pictures from the event, as well as the recipes for the food I made: Kimchi Express and Pjolter Waffles.
Stian Floer from Hitchhiker in Mathallen was there to share his quick and easy recipes for a Korean BBQ feast. Samsung was there to promote their new “dual cook” ovens, which can cook two dishes at their own temperatures in the same oven. I met my fellow foodies and bloggers Julie and TK. We teamed up for the cookalong.
We appointed Julie to team leader and she took care of the BBQ meat. TK made the Pajeon pancakes and accompanying dip as she had just recently made Korean pancakes at home. I made kimchi and “Pjolter”-waffles, named after my favorite restaurant Pjoltergeist. We were also joined later by Per Asbjørn Risnes, author of the cookbook “Pappamat”, who helped Julie with the meat and made the Korean sallad. In all humbleness I have to say we were quite the dream team.
1 Chinese cabbage
a handful of grated ginger
4 tbsp fish sauce
1 tsp salt
1 tbsp Sriracha sauce
2 tbsp Kimchi base
Rince all vegetables in cold water. Cut the cabbage in 2 cm pieces, grate the carrots and ginger. Mix everything in a bowl og rub the salt into it. Add the remaining ingredients and mix well.
This is all our recipe said. In addition I added some Chinese radish, and I put on plastic gloves and massaged the vegetables with the salt and sauces for 20 minutes. That makes them very soft, and in my opinion makes this express kimchi more similar to proper kimchi.
2 dl express kimchi
2 dl waffle batter
2,5 dl all-purpose flour
1 tsp baking powder
2 tbsp sugar
2,5 dl buttermilk
2 tbsp melted butter
Yesterday me and kleinjinx tested the newly opened Piscoteket. We were out dining with my parents, and we bumped into fellow foodie donmahr who was being a true gentleman taking his mom for a date. After the full set menu Marius was still not truly satisfied about showing his mom the best of Oslo. He decided to take her to Pjoltergeist as well. We thought it was a great idea, and joined them.
Apart from great wine and pjolters as always, the only food item we ordered was the elk tongue which was written with with a red marker on top of the printed menu. It was a beautiful dish of elk tongue with an apple mousse in the bottom, shredded apple on top and dusted with grated smoked elk heart. The guy serving us was Swedish and told us it was Swedish elk. So I jokingly asked if he shot the elk himself. No, he explained, his mom and dad had killed a few elks recently and they gave him this particular one to use in the restaurant. That’s why I love this place.